Kikusui – Defeating the Stigma of the Can

What do you think of when you hear “sake in a can?” To be frank, it’s probably not the most positive image. Canned products have faced an undeserving stigma for being low grade or having inferior quality. That is simply not the case, and Kikusui wants to let the world know.

Kikusui Brewery in the Winter

We met with Richard Priest of Kikusui and had the privilege of sampling a few products, including the aforementioned canned sake. But first, why are some of Kikusui’s sakes canned? The main goal is product preservation. With a bottle, the seal will never be completely airtight around the opening. In comparison, Kikusui’s can is specially lined on the inside and completely sealed so nothing can enter or leave. Furthermore unlike a bottle, light cannot enter a can and spoil the sake. An unpasteurized sake such as the Funaguchi is susceptible to various environmental hazards such as light and air, but a completely sealed vessel will prevent the elements from negatively affecting the contents. Kikusui’s Funaguchi sake in its characteristic yellow can was the first of its kind when it was introduced over forty years ago as a NAMA (fresh) sake. To date, it is Kikusui’s most popular product, accounting for a third of their overall sales.

Kikusui's Funaguchi in its yellow can

About a decade ago, an acute Kikusui drinker in Tokyo realized that by aging these Funaguchi cans, he could enjoy a richer, sweeter sake. Kikusui took note of this and created the Aged Funaguchi in a red can. Besides aging, the main difference is that while the non-aged Funaguchi is a hon-jozo sake, the aged Funaguchi is a ginjo sake. This sake is aged one year and has a velvety feel and is great for warm summer days. In fact, the Funaguchi had the distinction of being the only sake listed on the top items to bring to the beach in the Wall Street Journal in 2013! Thanks to its portable size and preservation capabilities, these two sakes are a fantastic way to enjoy sake in any situation, and should not be overlooked because they are in a can. In fact, Kikusui should be praised for their ingenuity. Both the aged and non aged varieties of the Funagushi sake can be enjoyed straight, or on the rocks. They are overall sweet and full sakes that stand up alongside food. Their sweetness contrasts well with spicy food as well as barbecued or fried foods. They are also refreshing with a slice or lemon or lime, or even cucumber.

On a side note, many American craft beer breweries have also come to the same conclusion as Kikusui, and have begun shifting from bottles back to cans. While some companies may be too concerned with image, dedicated breweries such as Kikusui are concerned with creating high quality products first and foremost. Remember, there are some situations where a bottle is more appropriate, and some situations where a can is more appropriate. In the case of the two Funaguchi varieties, a can is better than a bottle!

Funaguchi

Milling rate: 70%

Alcohol: 19.0%

SMV: -3.0

Aged Funaguchi

Milling rate: 55%

Alcohol: 19.0%

SMV: -4.0


We also sampled two other sakes that you may be a little more familiar with, the Kikusui Junmai Ginjo and the Perfect Snow Nigori.

Kikusui Junmai Ginjo

Milling rate: 55%

Alcohol: 15%

SMV: +2.0

The Junami Ginjo is a light and crisp dry sake. Great for those who are sake beginners, this offers the transitional stepping stone between wines and sakes. Those who are comfortable with white wines should try this as their introduction into sake. This is not a sake that dominates the mouth and is easy to pair with a variety of dishes.

Perfect Snow Nigori

Milling rate: 75%

Alcohol: 21%

SMV: -19.0

The Perfect Snow Nigori is unique in that it is unfilitered and contains a relatively high alcohol content of 21%. Don't be put off by its cloudy appearance! The haziness is because this is unfiltered and still contains the MOROMI (solid rice mash) from the brewing process. Due to this, it is necessary to shake the bottle before serving in order to mix the moromi with the liquid sake. Additionally, it is a genshu, meaning that the sake is undiluted; you can enjoy the complete taste of the sake without worrying about any flavor loss. Although it can be enjoyed straight, it really does shine as a cocktail component. Mixed simply with ginger ale, fruit juice, or Baileys, the Perfect Snow can help you bring out new and exciting flavors to your drink lineup. Try this out and discover a new, trendy cocktail!